Sure, you're shifting into 2nd quick, but once the car is moving, it's a non-issue. If anything, it saves a lot of clutch life during street use. It also made taking off at stop lights much easier, so I don't believe that a 14.4 is "way too deep for any street use". That's a 13.7 1st ratio (Jared, I misstated my 1st gear ratio in your 1/4 mile post). With the Jerico change, I picked up 4 mph and went from a best of 12.28 to 11.51 on my first full 1/4 mile pass. I already had the 4.30 gears in the car and was still having a terrible time with traction with the 2.78 toploader. When I bought my used Jerico, it already had the 3.19 gear, and it was used in a FE Fairlane drag car. I don’t have enough passes on the car to really speak to traction problems so don’t know if a low first like 3.17, ( G Force), or 3.19, ( Jerico), will help or hurt me. Rory, I might have a chance to grab a G Force with a 2.92 first. Maybe the Liberty face plated third gear is off center, just don’t know. I don’t feel like I can keep trying it at track, even with clutch pressure reduced. No problems with it staying in third on the street but street speeds are not the same as the speed at track plus tire spin occurs on street tires. Third gear shifter stop was a little tight, don’t know if that is responsible for trans not staying in third. I considered draining oil and would have if interlock test failed. I could not move arms in either test which tells me interlock pin is intact. Jared, I did a test where I put the trans in second via the shifter and then went under car and attempted to move third or fourth gear and switched the test with putting trans in third via shifter and attempted to move first or second via the shifter arms. Both my Jericos, as well as my G Force, use the popular 1 3/16"x18 MoPar Hemi spline input shafts, with Ford length and pilot sizes.Since I did not have a big spline Toploader clutch fork, it made sense to use the MoPar spline, as it allowed me to use a small input fork and throwout bearing, as well as free up a little room inside the bellhousing. My first Jerico came with 2.93 low gear, switching to 3.19 helped the launch, and the wider ratio drops never hurt the performance anywhere down the track.But if traction is an issue, a lower first will just make matters worse. My 85 Mustang ran the same trans and axle ratios, with 9" wide slicks, but with a weaker small block, but both cars left well, best of 1.29 60 foot in the Fairmont, 1.34 in the Mustang. My Fairmont normally runs 13" wide slicks, always dropping the clutch at 6000 RPM or higher. On both my Jericos, as well as the G Force, I used 3.19 low gears, along with 4.88 and 5.13 rear axle ratios. As for gearing, if you have the traction, more gear should always get the car moving quicker. That said, I have never had any case issues with either of my top & bottom DR4 cases, other than the time broken parts got caught between the main and cluster gears, but that is hardly regular stress load. A G101A should only require some minor floor pan and trans x-member modifications.Supposedly the round bottom Jerico case (top cover only) is stronger than the top & bottom cover versions, which does made sense, since the bottom is solid. The 5-speed (ala Doug Nash) required major surgery to the floor and t-bar x-member. Be aware that the G101A uses a T-10 bolt pattern and is a bit shorter too. My aluminum box is still on the bench awaiting a more tame build and the G-Force is ready to go in the car. Then we started adding weight back into the car, soon afterwards came the Monte Smith N20 kit, and suddenly we found ourselves needing something good for more than 650hp. In our case we wanted to upgrade to an aluminum case/tail, new 9310 gears, and my old super shifter was worn out so it made sense. They can be purchased reburbished from G-Force for around the same price as you would have in an a-833 if you started from scratch. If I were to stay with a 4-speed it would be a G-101A model. I built an all aluminum (bushed case) a-833 with face plated gears, billit retainer, all ARP Bolts, and a new shifter it was around 4k assembled at our shop.Ī few months later I scored a G-Force 5-speed for not a whole lot more than that. Passon and Brewers are also good to check with and can help steer you in the right direction. I'd call Liberty and talk to them directly if you are just in need of gears. I have yet to see a 9310 cluster gear although there are some floating around according to the elders. You can get 9310 alloy speed gears and have them faceplated by Liberty.
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